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mid afternoon, empty streets

My friends G+G and I got a cheap white rental car(with insurance) in Playa Del Carmen and escaped heading west to Merida. We eat our breakfast pizza pie? from the local bakery pondering on the roots of this culinary wonder, well I guess there are a lot of Italian tourist that go to Playa. We hit the road, I get sleepy as usual and doze of, but not quite, I did crack open my eyes to see Greg swerve just in time! Rest of the drive was uneventful and we arrive in Merida 240 miles, 4 hours later.

interpretation of a calzone?

So navigating in Merida can be confusing or very easy, you see in the centro the streets are numbered on both cross street, north south is even numbered, east west is odd. Any map will do till you orient yourself. Beyond logical if you ask me.
Merida
This city is a colonial beauty that bustles during Mexican peak hours, morning and early evening, lots of people shopping and going about daily business, driving and honking, barbers cutting hair, women selling wears, kiddies going to school in their uniforms and a few tourists here and there in their all terrain shoes. Its awesome, its real, its hot, its got history and its modern, its zocalo has  music, its got art.

Ok, so once in a while you can do a tourist tour and not feel bad about it right? We did and we lucked out, having the bus almost all to ourselves. The dbl decker city tour bus that bombs around town has an optional  audio guide. Good for an overview of the architecture and layout of the city, hey and there is a nice breeze when riding on the roof deck! But don’t stand up while the bus is moving, you might catch some street wires.The strangest achitecture to me was the victorian mansion stocked with peacocks in yard and the elaborate chinese temple-like home with swooping roof details. Merida also has modern buildings and highrises, so its really a city that has it all.

We also dared to walk the empty afternoon streets to check out public sculptures dodging the sun.

Merida old

Public art, Merida

And for the real Mexican experience go to a cantina with the cowboy saloon doors, inside you will find men, men, men, and cheap beer. Try not to look awkward while downing beers quickly. You can try to drink as many as the local dude beside you but you won’t be able to pound 6  1 litre beers that fast. This cantina had a jukebox that was loud as hell, friendly drunks, x-mas decor and coronas, what else could you want? Outside the escape route, otherwise called saloon doors, there was a handy hot corn on the cob vendor. The corn is slathered with gobs of butter, spinkles of chili and fresh lime, its the ultimate combo for corn!

Cantina in Merida, Mexico

On another night we checked out Alberto’s Continental Lebanese restaurant thinking it would be tasty, we got service like you wouldn’t believe, there were about 6 waiters lurking in the dark background and we were just about the only ones there. There was an anitque shop or sorts there, actually the whole place was a time warp. It would have been better if we ate at a small local joint, bah, damn those guide books! Leave your guide books at home all you travellers! All you need is a map.

Merida has some old colonial homes that have the gringos reaching for their wallets in order to buy, restore and resell. Restoring one of the old colonial homes there or another Mex loc is a great fantasy of mine. Not sure where in Mexico though, maybe Merida, maybe the west coast, one can keep dreaming and scheming. Still so many places to check out in Mex…

more photos here >

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Ben Thanh Market

Noodles noodles noodles, I can never eat enough noodles, in broth, in miso, in curry, fried with thick sweet soy, deep fried topped with a mountain of veg, fried by a South Indian man, fried by a street hawker, made with well water from only one city in the world, pulled, cut or rolled, noodles made with egg, rice, buckwheat, mung bean, semolina or sweet potato, the varieties are endless.

When we were in Saigon, Vietnam, I had noodles in soup almost every morning for a month interspersed with a Banh Mi here and there. That made me happy as a clam, ready to start the outrageously hot day.

Bun Suong Noodles in Soup
When in Saigon we went to Ben Thanh market to check out the local food stands for breakfast. My eyes look around to find the stall most populated and with the freshest ingredients, we pull up a stool and order. We both have Bun Suong, while you cant actually see what’s in the bowl from our hasty photos, inside is shrimp paste rolls, huge succulent prawns and rice vermicelli in delicious broth and the customary plate of fresh herbs and sprouts, you know I could eat this every day. The big gringo orders another bowl, the stall girls giggle. Happiness.

Ben Thanh Market, Saigon
Walking around the market we eye more gorgeous foods and friendly smiles. Vietnamese are pretty smiley people, super hard working and industrious. Give a smile, get a smile, vice versa.

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Nanaimo ferry terminal

Summer is almost here and its time to plan another island getaway to our buddy’s house. We flew last time and let me tell you 1 hour total beats the 5 hour ferry expedition. Don’t get me wrong, I love BC ferries, great scenery, lots of fresh air and ferry food hmmm. But flying is awesome if you are pressed for time.

Chieftan airplane

Look at that wee plane! Its a Chieftan airplane, 6-8 passengers. Orca Air has an ongoing deal of $59 one way to Qualicum, which is 50%+ less than the competition. The experience is very fun, maybe a bit unnerving but totally stunning views are to be had.

img_3350-sm Even Dean and Cam fit snugly behind the pilot and co-pilot. 30 high flying minutes later we landed on the small runway in Qualicum, our friend and her dog greeting us with big smiles(yes, dogs smile).

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Airbus 320

Airbus 320

Easy Peasy describes traveling through Vietnam by state run airlines Vietnam Airlines, getting from culturally dense point A to that awesome relaxing point B. Grid-skipping through the long country by air not only saves you time but might save you from some white knuckle rides on the highways and definitely trumps riding the slooow and ‘dirt’-cheap  state-run Reunification Train(that is another post!).

I found it very easy to find local tour operators and even the sweet hotel staff that would book my ticket. Give them the info and ta-dah one or two days later you have your ticket is delivered to the hotel or tour office!
TIP: its cheaper to book domestic flights when you are there rather than from abroad.

We flew twice once on an Airbus 320 from Da Nang to Hanoi, which was just fine.

Flying from Hanoi to Nha Trang on the ATR72 was also fine except for the unexpected twin-turboprops? Passengers, including us were surprised to be boarding this low bellied beast, waving our tickets in the air pleading with staff that this must be wrong and we were really supposed to be boarding that big shiny plane over there on the tarmac.

Oh yes, prices were very affordable, maybe odd but I guess that’s what you get when the party runs transport. And if flying ain’t your thing then I hear the busses are pretty good too.

Got to plan a trip back soon, I’m coming lobster lady!!!

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lobster ladyclams & conch

Oh I love Nha Trang, I love it in all the touristy ways, lounging at the beach, temple seeking, hunting for art and hanging out with local artists or clinking glasses with expats, but most of all I love the food! Food, food, delicious fresh Vietnamese food.

I swear it is the easiest cuisine to eat, whether you are a vegetarian, meatatarian or fusspot. So my fav meal just so happened to be on the beach, it was a late lunch of fresh bbq-ed lobster & steamed conch with sweet, salty, sour chili dip. Just wait for lobster lady to come by in the afternoon, you’ll recognize her by the biggest smile beaming from her tanned face, her wiry body carrying her wears on  shoulder baskets.

Concurring with Batali and Bourdain’s ‘last bite’ being Vietnamese food, mine might just have to be grilled lobster from Nha Trang lobster lady.

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Where can we get a local cheap meal in Ubud, Bali we asked our friend? We wanted authentic fare not a for tourist only resto, so buddy suggested Bu Oka west of the town market(for tourist) and across from Ubud Palace. We walked by and it was just what we were looking for and they sold ice cold Bintangs too, hello!

The sight of a freshly roasted pig stuffed with spices then slow roasted over a fire pit with glistening dark coconut water basted skin was very exciting. We ordered up 3 plates and jostled for a spot streetside. You can sit inside(which is just roofed, sans shoes) but we like the pig carving action and the thought of catching a breeze that never came.

As you can see from the photo, our plates did not disappoint. Flavour of the pork was piggy-li-cious, it was moist and skin cracked between your teeth, veggies were spicy, random fried innards were tough but good(but what were they?), there was some blood sausage thingy, all washed down with a frosty beer and a cheers to good health etc., all was good.

Also check out Anthony Bourdain’s Bali/Indonesia episode for his experience at Bu Oka.

Note: not open for dinner

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Through  and big sweet tooth / 4th World Love I found out about a volunteering diversion from my Bali vacation.

Misty, co-founder of 4thworldlove arranged for me to meet Am, her man on the ground in Lombok and they set up accommodations for me at the local homestay in Sembalun Village as well as a car to lug my too big luggage.

When I first spoke to Am on the phone he he sounded so friendly and familiar, when I met him my assumptions were validated, from there, all the people I met in Sembalun were equally as friendly and welcoming, really awesome people with the brightest smiles. They really left a huge impression on me, so much so I hope to be working with them in the future. I’m definitely planning on going back.

4thworldlove Community Centre

In the classroom at the 4thWorldLove community centre, people were eager to attend, no matter how much English they understood, it was great to ‘teach’ them my little lesson on global warming. After class we were treated to a lovely lunch cooked by Upa, her husband is a local Mount Rinjani trek guide, and their baby Azizi is the sweetest little who needs heart surgery that 4thWorldLove is facilitating.

Upa and baby Azi

Upa made lunch!

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Wider seats yeah!

EVA Air, Evergreen Deluxe Class – definitely worth the couple hun upgrade!

  • Regular business-class seating with a 38-inch seat pitch (economy 33-in. pitch & 18.3-in. w)
  • wider seats so the person(my 6’ 1” guy) beside you is not rubbing elbows
  • 2-4-2 seating arrangement
  • greater food variety

Note this is for the long haul flight, the flight from Taipei is on a smaller plane and then deluxe citizens comfort becomes equal to economy.

Those are my most noticeable upgrades from economy but sometimes when you come across the $850 special from Vancouver, Canada to Singapore you just can’t say no to economy.

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Satay galore

Satay galore

Looking for a far-away place to celebrate your birthday? How about an equatorial birthday bash in Singapore East Coast Lagoon(New York Times article) Hawker Centre.

It was steamy hot to sit outside even at night in this beachside hawker centre but the atmosphere is awesome and the food selection is broad. I suggest getting a table closer to the beachside in hopes of catching an occasional breeze and the cheap jugs of Tiger Beer is that-a-way.

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