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VIETNAM

Ben Thanh Market

Noodles noodles noodles, I can never eat enough noodles, in broth, in miso, in curry, fried with thick sweet soy, deep fried topped with a mountain of veg, fried by a South Indian man, fried by a street hawker, made with well water from only one city in the world, pulled, cut or rolled, noodles made with egg, rice, buckwheat, mung bean, semolina or sweet potato, the varieties are endless.

When we were in Saigon, Vietnam, I had noodles in soup almost every morning for a month interspersed with a Banh Mi here and there. That made me happy as a clam, ready to start the outrageously hot day.

Bun Suong Noodles in Soup
When in Saigon we went to Ben Thanh market to check out the local food stands for breakfast. My eyes look around to find the stall most populated and with the freshest ingredients, we pull up a stool and order. We both have Bun Suong, while you cant actually see what’s in the bowl from our hasty photos, inside is shrimp paste rolls, huge succulent prawns and rice vermicelli in delicious broth and the customary plate of fresh herbs and sprouts, you know I could eat this every day. The big gringo orders another bowl, the stall girls giggle. Happiness.

Ben Thanh Market, Saigon
Walking around the market we eye more gorgeous foods and friendly smiles. Vietnamese are pretty smiley people, super hard working and industrious. Give a smile, get a smile, vice versa.

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Airbus 320

Airbus 320

Easy Peasy describes traveling through Vietnam by state run airlines Vietnam Airlines, getting from culturally dense point A to that awesome relaxing point B. Grid-skipping through the long country by air not only saves you time but might save you from some white knuckle rides on the highways and definitely trumps riding the slooow and ‘dirt’-cheap  state-run Reunification Train(that is another post!).

I found it very easy to find local tour operators and even the sweet hotel staff that would book my ticket. Give them the info and ta-dah one or two days later you have your ticket is delivered to the hotel or tour office!
TIP: its cheaper to book domestic flights when you are there rather than from abroad.

We flew twice once on an Airbus 320 from Da Nang to Hanoi, which was just fine.

Flying from Hanoi to Nha Trang on the ATR72 was also fine except for the unexpected twin-turboprops? Passengers, including us were surprised to be boarding this low bellied beast, waving our tickets in the air pleading with staff that this must be wrong and we were really supposed to be boarding that big shiny plane over there on the tarmac.

Oh yes, prices were very affordable, maybe odd but I guess that’s what you get when the party runs transport. And if flying ain’t your thing then I hear the busses are pretty good too.

Got to plan a trip back soon, I’m coming lobster lady!!!

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lobster ladyclams & conch

Oh I love Nha Trang, I love it in all the touristy ways, lounging at the beach, temple seeking, hunting for art and hanging out with local artists or clinking glasses with expats, but most of all I love the food! Food, food, delicious fresh Vietnamese food.

I swear it is the easiest cuisine to eat, whether you are a vegetarian, meatatarian or fusspot. So my fav meal just so happened to be on the beach, it was a late lunch of fresh bbq-ed lobster & steamed conch with sweet, salty, sour chili dip. Just wait for lobster lady to come by in the afternoon, you’ll recognize her by the biggest smile beaming from her tanned face, her wiry body carrying her wears on  shoulder baskets.

Concurring with Batali and Bourdain’s ‘last bite’ being Vietnamese food, mine might just have to be grilled lobster from Nha Trang lobster lady.

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